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Bliss 2010-03-11T21:53:30+11:00 Bliss urn:http://www.blissgardengiftware.com.au:news How to care for Daffodils urn:http://www.blissgardengiftware.com.au:news11 2009-08-06T12:01:12+11:00 2009-08-06T11:51:00+11:00

How to care for Daffodils. Daffodils are the classic heralds of spring. They bring an element of surprise and excitement each year as gardeners eagerly await their emergence from the soil, closely followed by their breathtaking floral performance. Daffodils are easy to look after in the Garden ·    They grow in full sun to semi-shade but do best in a position with sun during winter and spring, when they bloom. ·    Daffodils also need plenty of sun when they've just finished flowering, as this is when the bulbs are taking in energy for the following year's display. ·    While they are dormant, daffodils should be left un-watered. If your summer climate is wet or soil is poorly drained, they can be lifted and stored in a cool, dark place and replanted in autumn. Otherwise they can be left to grow and multiply. ·    Daffodils are extremely drought hardy, however, to have them performing at their best I advise to mulch well.  ·    Resist the temptation to pull off or cut back leaves before daffodils have died down completely. Leaving them allows the goodness to return to the bulb in preparation for next season's flowering. Daffodils are easy to look after in the Pots ·    The main key to success with daffodils in pots is to choose suitable bulb varieties, which are sturdy and not too tall, such as "tete a tete" ·    Always use a well-drained potting mix or a potting mix that has been designed especially for bulbs. ·    If you do bring pots of daffodils inside and you wish to keep the bulbs growing for as long as possible, place them in a cool position in the house, away from any heaters. ·    To have these pots of daffodils looking great year after year, it's necessary to renew the potting mix with slow release fertilizer and wetting agent annually, or to replant your bulbs into new potting mix. ·    Alternatively plant the bulbs into the garden after they've finished flowering, and replace them with new daffodil bulbs the following season. Daffodils are versatile ·    Daffodils suit all styles of gardens, whether cottage or formal, small or large, and they can even be used successfully in contemporary settings. ·    Grow them in clumps in the garden, as borders, in containers, mass plant them in drifts, or let them naturalise - whichever way, they look stunning. ·    They are an ideal choice as an under-planting for deciduous trees that are bare-stemmed in winter. ·    Growing daffodils in pots enables you to show off the plants while they're looking their best, then move them to a  less prominent position while they're not putting on a show. ·    Dwarf Daffodils such as "tete a tete" look great in pots! So there you have it. Daffodils look great, they're tough as nails, and they're  even cheap to buy!

What to get for Mum this Mothers Day urn:http://www.blissgardengiftware.com.au:news10 2009-05-05T18:46:39+11:00 2009-05-05T18:38:00+11:00

"The moment a child is born, the mother is also born. She never existed before. The woman existed, but the mother, never. A mother is something absolutely new." ~Rajneesh Even the cluckiest woman alive doesn't truly know what it feels like to be a mother until that little miracle is placed in her arms, and her journey of giving begins! Years of wiping noses, tears and bottoms and dishing out cuddles, meals and pocket money is all in day's work for Mum, with little thought of herself. So don't you think Mum deserves a little pampering? The main thing to remember is that it's Mum's day, so choose something that she will love (even if it sounds a bit tame for you!). Here's some suggestions: Treat Mum to a family meal. In a recent US study of Mother's Day spending, this was at the top of the list. It doesn't matter where you go or what you eat - just make sure Mum doesn't have to cook! Gather the whole clan and head for a beautiful park or café for a long, lazy brunch, lunch or dinner. A lot of Mums like a bit of physical pampering. A trip to a day spa, massage, or beauty treatment, will often go down well. Does Mum like a wrapped gift? How do you know what to get? Take note of her taste. What colours dominate her house? Does she have a hobby? Does she entertain guests? Is she an indoor person or a gardener? Does she like to wear a bit of bling?! These are good questions to ask yourself before gift shopping for Mum. Most popular Mother's Day gifts at Bliss <ul> <li>Unique handmade jewellery </li> <li>Designer doormats </li> <li>Dainty plants in ceramic pots (a living bouquet) </li> <li>Pretty heat pillows </li> <li>Iron wall decor </li> <li>Unique kitchenware </li> <li>Beautiful handbags </li> <li>Gift vouchers </li> </ul> Gift vouchers can seem a bit impersonal, but if your Mum likes to browse and choose her own luxuries then it's as easy as choosing the right store for Mum to indulge herself in. Make it an outing for the both of you! Treat your Mum this Mother's Day and make her day special.

6 Tips on caring for a Cut Xmas Tree urn:http://www.blissgardengiftware.com.au:news9 2008-12-11T17:30:13+11:00 2008-12-11T17:23:00+11:00

When we were kids our parents worked for the Forestry in Tumut. They were given a cut Christmas tree every year. Nothing beats the look of a real tree with decorations sitting in the corner of the room. Oh and the smell! Over the years we became quite good at keeping them alive and looking good for a long time. Here are some tips: <dir> 1. When picking the tree up take a plastic bag and rubber band to place over the trunk. This helps the trunk to stay moist on the drive home. 2. When you get the tree home cut about 2cm off the base of the trunk and place straight in water. This is not crucial, but it will improve water uptake and keep the tree fresh for longer. Place the tree in a stand that can hold at least 5 litres of water. You should expect the tree to take up additional water. 3. Always keep the water topped up. If the base dries out, resin will form over the cut end and the tree will not be able to absorb water and will dry out quickly. If the base seals over, you will need to re-cut the trunk, not good if it is fully decorated. You don't need anything other than regular tap water. Commercially prepared mixes like aspirin, sugar and other additives introduce into the water are not necessary. Research has shown that plain water will keep a tree fresh. 4. Check for worn Christmas tree light electrical cords and always unplug at night. Use Aus standard electrical decorations and cords. Using miniature lights produce less heat and reduce the drying effect on the tree or any chance of fire. Never leave the lights on when you go out. 5. Air conditioning can quickly dry out your tree. If possible place the tree out of the direct air flow. 6. Take down the tree before it dries out. Many fresh cut trees if properly cared for (using the first five steps) should last at least five weeks before drying out. Some species keep their moisture longer than others. </dir> So there you have it. Follow these tips and you will enjoy your freshly cut Christmas tree right up until boxing day.

Small water gardens are easy maintenance urn:http://www.blissgardengiftware.com.au:news8 2008-09-14T20:23:48+11:00 2008-09-14T20:12:00+11:00

Container care is easy Once your water garden has been planted, caring for it is a simple matter. If the plants don't seem to be thriving, more than likely the problem is not enough light. If that's the case, then move the container to a brighter spot. If it's too heavy to lift, remove the plants, empty out the water, move the container, and then rearrange it. Water plants grow quickly but, even so, I encourage them by using fertilizing tablets. For new plants, I delay fertilizing until they show signs of growth. When a plant gets big, I divide and re-pot it in heavy clay soil with a layer of stones over the top. Dense soils won't cloud the water when containers are moved, and, just to be sure, I always firm the soil fairly tightly before lowering the container back into the water. If the plants seem too robust, I limit their growth by keeping them in small pots and trimming off the oldest and tallest leaves. There's no need to change the water in a container garden, although you should top it up every few days to replace liquid that may have evaporated. I've never had problems with mosquitoes breeding in containers, but if you want to eliminate any chance of establishing a breeding ground for insects, you might wash the larvae out by overfilling your container with water or add a few goldfish. Goldfish varieties that eat mozzie larvae and are best for outdoors are Comets, Shubunkins and Fantails - all common in pet stores. Aquatic nurseries have also developed specially formulated products for killing mosquito larvae. When winter comes, it doesn't have to mean the end of the garden. Most Water Plants will become dormant and re-shoot in spring. Hardy plants can be left in the container but may need protection against freezing. Where winters are severe, aquarium-type heaters can prevent your container water garden from turning into a giant ice cube. One plant to look out for is the Water Hawthorn (Aponogeton distachyos). This plant is one of the few to flourish and even flower in the cold. The white scented flowers and oval shaped leaves float on the water like a water lily. So give a small water garden a try. First, decide on a spot in your garden and then come in to Bliss to see the great range of water bowls, water plants, and fountain equipment. There you will see small water gardens set up to show you how they are to look, and just how easy it is to create.

Choosing water plants for a small water garden urn:http://www.blissgardengiftware.com.au:news7 2008-09-15T10:15:16+11:00 2008-09-14T20:10:00+11:00

Use water plants with contrasting shapes to create appealing compositions Water, cupped in a container or basin, is a thing of beauty. Its flickering reflections are a welcome presence in any garden. But dressing it up with plants transports the display to a whole new dimension. I like to create compositions that are vibrant and dynamic, so I use plants with contrasting shapes, colours, and sizes. For me, the more contrast, the better. I like to combine the tall, slender, spiky shapes of an erect, fine-leaved marginal plant like yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus) or sweet flag (Acorus gramineus) with the floating foliage of an easy-to-grow water lily (nymphaea sp) or some of the smaller lily-like plants such as Showy Marshwort (Nymphoides spinulosperma) and Nardoo (Marlilea mutica). Bare in mind, water lilies will be too big for most water bowls, so it may be better to stick to the latter 2 varieties and other small floating varieties. As an especially dramatic accent, I might add a Papyrus or a clump of brightly colored chameleon plant (Houttuynia cordata 'Chameleon'). I especially like using plants that have a story of their own: pitcher plants (Sarracenia spp.), for example, eat insects, digesting small bugs in the recesses of their large, trumpet-shaped leaves. To finish off a planting, I sprinkle a few small floating plants -- like water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) or water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes)-over the surface of the water. I also might soften the hard edge of the container by letting a cascading plant like water mint (Mentha aquatica), with its fragrant foliage and powder-blue flowers, tumble over the side. Whatever plants I use, I try to keep them in scale with the container. Huge plants spilling out of a tiny container most likely would not create a pleasing effect. There are no strict guidelines to follow, so I just aim for a plant and container combination that looks harmonious and proportionate. For a crisp look, use only a few water plants The first mistake beginning water gardeners make is jamming too many plants into their container. Though a water bowl easily accommodates up to four plants potted in 140mm and 200mm pots and a host of floating plants, there's no need to use that many. An overcrowded container often results in designs that are chaotic. Keep it simple. Especially when you're starting, it's easiest to make pleasing designs with only two or three plants. As you gain experience, you can graduate to more complicated compositions using greater numbers and varieties of plants. However many you use, how and where you place plants in the container is of paramount importance. The plants should fit as a unit to create the picture you want. First, determine how the planting will be viewed. Designing a container that will be seen from a few directions is a lot easier than making one that's meant to be viewed from all sides. Unless the container is to be seen from all around, place a tall, spiky plant at the centre rear to create a dramatic backdrop. Then use a broad-leaved marginal or two in front or to one side, where their generously sized leaves will contrast sharply with the whip-like fronds of taller plants. Remember to keep it simple, otherwise you risk diminishing the effect. For containers that will be seen from all sides, I put the tall, vertical-leaved plant in the middle and arrange broadleafs on each side. For either kind of design, I arrange and rearrange the plants until I get the effect I'm looking for. It's easy to change the height and position of plants by perching them on bricks or empty, overturned containers. Most marginals, whether their leaves are thin and vertical or broad and horizontal, give excellent results when their crowns are placed 6 inches or less beneath the water's surface. Only after the main parts have been positioned do I begin adding accents like floating or cascading plants, or for a special touch, an eye-catching specimen.

Choosing a water bowl urn:http://www.blissgardengiftware.com.au:news6 2008-09-14T20:21:57+11:00 2008-09-14T20:06:00+11:00

Choose a Water Bowl based on the look you want to achieve Water bowls come in a variety of shapes and colours. Some can even be a feature on their own. If you would like your water garden to be an accent feature, choose a striking water bowl with a bit of height. In it you can place tall accent type water plants like Papyrus, Lepiromia, or Iris. This will provide you with a good overall height and real impact. If you are more interested in the plants and water, choose a water bowl that is low and wide, ensuring the bowl is less of a feature and giving the ability to fit more plants and possibly a small fountain. With a low and wide bowl, not only can you fit more plants, it is a better level for the eye to look down on the water allowing for water lilies and goldfish to be the feature.

How to create a small water garden in Canberra urn:http://www.blissgardengiftware.com.au:news5 2008-09-14T20:17:12+11:00 2008-09-14T20:01:00+11:00

<h1>How to create a small Water Garden in Canberra</h1> Thursday, 31 July 2008 10:49 AM <div class="body"> Small Water Gardens are great for a few of reasons. They look great, sound lovely (with a small fountain), relatively inexpensive, easier to maintain than a large pond, and you can have them in a small area such as a patio or balcony. They're foolproof too. If you wind up with a design that you don't like, it's easy to rearrange the plants. Small-container water gardens are actually a collection of submerged potted plants, so redesigning a planting is as simple as moving the pots around. And the plants are tough -- most are hard to kill and require virtually no maintenance. All you need is a sunny spot with at least six hours of direct sun a day, something that holds water, and a few plants. For me, small-container water gardens have been an endless source of inspiration. And once you've mastered a small container, think what you can do in a big water garden. <a href="/news/2008/9/14/6/Choosing_a_water_bowl">Choosing a water bowl</a> <a href="/news/2008/9/14/7/Choosing_plants_for_a_small_water_garden">Choosing plants for a small water garden</a> <a href="/news/2008/9/14/8/Small_water_gardens_are_easy_maintenance">Small water gardens are easy maintenance</a> </div>

Low water use garden - Part One urn:http://www.blissgardengiftware.com.au:news4 2008-09-11T10:48:26+11:00 2008-09-04T21:35:00+11:00

<h3>Low water use garden - Part One</h3> <h3>Soil Preparation</h3> First Prepare the soil. Try to do this ahead of time, weeks or months if you can. I'm a big fan of a sort of "No-Dig Garden". This is where you layer materials on top of the soil without digging them in. This method is perfect for areas where the soil is too hard to dig, where the area is weed infested, dry areas, or physically you are unable to dig. Here is a basic version of the No-Dig Garden I have used with great success. If there are weeds or lawn, simply mow as low as you can. First lay down plenty of gypsum and manure. This will break down into the soil providing nutrients, enabling the soil to hold more water, and encourage worms to come to the surface. Then lay down a thick layer of newspaper or cardboard. I prefer cardboard as its thick, easy to get (from recycling depots around Canberra), and quick to lay (using big sheets). The Cardboard will last long enough to kill all the weeds and not let others germinate. It also provides a great layer to prevent evaporation. Cover this with a thick layer (7cm-10cm) of mulch, preferably lucerne or straw, or a thick layer (7cm-10cm) of a wood chip or bark type mulch will do. This will hold the cardboard to the ground and keep it moist so it rots down. The mulch will also rot down once the cardboard has gone. Thoroughly wet the area to settle the mulch down onto the cardboard. After a month the soil underneath will be moist and ready to plant into. After 6 months the cardboard will have composted into the soil which will now be dark and friable. Continue to layer compost and straw onto your garden as it rots down and always keep it well mulched. Your garden bed will deliver consistent, spectacular results season after season.